

Keen
walker ROGER ALLNUTT shares his favourite trekking trails in Europe,
Australia, New Zealand and the United States.
I grew up in Tasmania in a keen bushwalking family
and have vivid memories of many walks especially on Mt Wellington
overlooking Hobart as well as the Freycinet Peninsula and in the
Mt Field National Park.
Although I mainly enjoyed the walks, the memory of
overnight camps on rainy nights - the weather in Tasmania is notoriously
fickle - tends to cloud the experience.
Fifty years later I still enjoy bushwalking but after
the rigours of the day the prospect of comfortable accommodation,
together with a good meal (and wine) and convivial company, is one
to be savoured.
Fortunately there are many companies around the world
that offer walking programs, both guided and self-guided, where
my preferences (and undoubtedly many other people’s) are catered
for. These programs can range from multi-day walks from one base
or an A to B trek where accommodation and meals are included and
your baggage, apart from a daypack, is moved for
you.
Such programs can be found in all corners of the globe
covering some of the most spectacular scenery and walking country.
I have chosen five walks to whet the appetite of the
energetic and curious mature walker. The walks are all suitable
for a reasonably fit person, although it is best if you are a regular
walker or have undertaken a lead-up program of walking as you will
be required to walk anywhere from 12-25km per day.
A good pair or walking boots (not sneakers) is recommended
and these should be comfortable and well broken in – blisters
from new boots are a real hindrance. Walking boots provide good
ankle support especially on tracks that are rocky and uneven.
Burgundy, France
The Grande Randonnee, marked trails throughout France,
are a perfect way to explore and experience the joys of the French
countryside. In Burgundy you have the added benefit of historic
towns, and great food and wine.
The route from Auxerre to Avallon in northern Burgundy
joins two historic towns with a mixture of walking on trails through
vineyards and cherry orchards, along towpaths on smaller rivers
such as the Yonne and Cure, and through rolling farmland and a long
stretch on a leafy path underneath a canopy of tree cover. Detailed
instructions are provided about each day's route.
Two nights' accommodation is organised at each stopping
point allowing one day to walk between hotels (around 20km) with
the second day spent exploring the town or alternatively additional
walks are possible in the surrounding countryside.
Accommodation in small villages was excellent and
our tour included two pre-arranged dinners dinner at a hotel restaurant,
superb meals (typically French with lots of rich creamy sauces)
sitting out at tables under the stars in the garden.
Although most of the walking was on reasonably flat
terrain, one day ended with a final steep climb to touristy Vezelay
with its UNESCO heritage-listed 12th century Basilica of Sainte
Madelaine, perched on top of the hill.
Vezelay was one of the important places of pilgrimage
on the way to Compostella and climbing up the path from Asquins
at the end of a long days' walk I know how the pilgrims felt.
We were the only two walkers in our 'group'; on a
couple of occasions an extra head may have saved unnecessary detours
from incorrect map reading.
Bay of Fires, Tasmania
Along the rugged and pristine northeast coast of Tasmania the 4-day
Bay of Fires walk showcases an array of coastal landscapes, deserted
beaches and rocky headlands while two nights are spent at the dramatic
Bay of Fires Lodge
From Launceston airport you are driven through the
rugged terrain of northeastern Tasmania to Boulder Point at the
northern end of Mt William National Park from where you walk, accompanied
by your guides, to your overnight camp at Forester Beach.
Walking along deserted, pure-white beaches you see
many wallabies, whales, dolphins and a myriad of bird life before
reaching the architecturally stunning lodge, evocatively described
as 'a spear hanging over the beach'.
Along the way you pass historic Eddystone Point lighthouse.
The lodge, perched on a headland, has been designed to blend with
the surrounding landscape. Gourmet meals are carefully prepared
for your enjoyment using fresh local produce and accompanied by
Tasmanian wines.
The third day is spent relaxing round the lodge, collecting
shells, trying your skills on a kayak or just watching the local
fauna and admiring the variety of flora.
The relaxing last day walk takes you to the fishing
port of St Helens before a leisurely drive back to Launceston via
the Fingal Valley.
Daily departures during the season from November to
April; maximum group size is 10 people.
Able Tasman, New Zealand
New Zealand is famous for its walking trails with the Milford, Routeburn,
Hollyford and Humpridge tracks in the south island drawing large
numbers each year.
Less well known is the Abel Tasman National Park in
the sunny northern region of the south island with its mix of native
rainforest, clear mountain streams, golden beaches and an amazing
variety of wildlife.
The trail is a pleasant coastal walk, either three
or five days, between Kaiteriteri about an hour's bus ride north
of the regional centre of Nelson, and Totaranui about a two hour
cruise along the coast.
The track follows close to the water with plenty of
sandy beaches interspersed with granite headlands from which panoramic
views along the coast are obtained. There is time for a swim in
the clear water and a number of historic sites relating to the early
settlers in the area can be explored. There are also a number of
historic Maori sites.
For the five-day walk, the most popular and recommended,
accommodation is two nights each at Meadowbank Homestead at Awaroa
Bay and Torrent Bay Lodge at Torrent Bay. The second day at each
lodge can be spent doing optional walks or just relaxing perhaps
indulging in a spot of kayaking or canoeing.
Experienced guides accompany the walk and all meals
are included at the lodges.
Yosemite Sierra Hiker, USA
The Yosemite Sierra Hiker offers the chance to walk in
both Yosemite National Park and also nearby Kings Canyon National
Park and Sequoia National Park thus encompassing three of the most
beautiful and dramatic areas of California amid the peaks of the
Great Western Divide.
At Kings Canyon the first walk passes by huge stands
of sequoia, cedar and pines. Two nights at Wuksachi Lodge with deer
grazing around the sleeping quarters. Next day a hike along the
river canyon to Mist Falls, old growth forest and cascading streams.
In Sequoia National Park to view the General Sherman
Tree (the 'world's largest living thing"!) and a hike through
Crescent Meadows, lush with wildflowers. The climb on the High Sierra
Trail to Moro Rock for breathtaking views is also guaranteed to
take the breath away - literally.
In Yosemite a stroll through McGurk Meadows is followed
by a hike to Taft Point and on to Sentinel Dome for panoramas across
to El Capitan and the daring climbers clinging to the rock face.
The major hike is the Panorama Trail (about 20km) past cascading
waterfalls and with stunning views over the Yosemite Valley. There
are a number of easier trails on the valley floor or you can even
indulge in some horseback riding.
Cinque Terre, Italy
The popular Riviera di Levante stretches east along the
Italian coast from the port of Genoa. From Monterosso to Riomaggiore
is the region called the Cinque Terre, after the group of five fishing
villages where, during medieval times, shrines were built although
the settlements date to Roman times. For centuries the only access
to the villages was by sea and then the railway line was built,
the line carved out of the rock. It is only in the last thirty years
that road access has been available to all five
villages.
It is possible to walk the famous Cinque Terre coastal
path between Monterosso and Riomaggiore (about 18 km) in one day
but it is better to extend your walk at either end encompassing
Levanto to Portovenere.
The coastal path is relatively flat although at some
of the villages there are flights of ancient steps that cause the
heart to beat faster. There are some alternative higher routes but
these are definitely for the fitter walker.
In places the path is rocky and narrow and in the
summer season there are so many walkers it is a bit like Pitt St
(you hear an incredible array of languages).
From Levanto to Monterosso the path is through woods
and scented scrub. For me the most rewarding section of the walk
is from Vernazza to Corniglia with spectacular coastal panoramas
and the view from the pathway above Vernazza over the famous Round
Tower and ruins of its medieval fortifications is very special.
The hillsides around Corniglia are covered in vineyards
and in the lovely central piazza of the village walkers were enjoying
a refreshing drink under the canopy of leaves.
Manarola is set in a deep cleft of the coastline,
colourful houses on both sides of a narrow street leading down to
a small harbour. The houses are painted in hues of red, brown, yellow
and green creating a colourful patchwork effect contrasting with
the vivid blue of the water. The pathway from Manarola to Riomaggiore
is known as "Via dell'Amore" (Lover's Walk).
The medieval town of Portovenere is reached via a
path through pine woods before the final dramatic descent to the
colourful harbour with the islands of Palmaria offshore.
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