Rites of passage

For most people, the word ‘cruise’ conjures images of palm-fringed anchorages and quaint tropical ports of call. Deanna Swaney reports that one of the world’s most popular cruising routes plies through a coconut-free zone.

The magnificent 2000-km Inside Passage, linking Vancouver, Canada, and Skagway, Alaska, follows a sinuous route through forested, rain-lush islands and coastlines that dip dramatically beneath a calm and decidedly chilly sea.

For nearly a million adventurers every summer, cruises along this well-sheltered waterway present a front-row, IMAX-film view of a spectacular wilderness environment that’s officially described as ‘temperate rainforest’ in reference to its typically inclement weather and the resulting density of enormous coniferous trees. But while the characteristic sogginess features prominently in the experience, warm sunny days aren’t uncommon, and even dank weather doesn’t dampen the thrill of slipping past impossibly sharp, ice-capped peaks, sharing narrow passages with pods of spouting whales, watching bears along the shoreline, or nosing up to the soaring glacial faces of Glacier Bay National Park, where icebergs the size of 10-storey buildings calve dramatically into the water.

Amidst the natural grandeur nestle a handful of rustic ports of call – Ketchikan, Sitka, Juneau, and Skagway – remnants of Alaska’s days as a remote outpost of the Russian Empire or, more recently, the end of the rainbow for gold-crazed prospectors. Dwarfed by the cruise ships that crowd into their port areas every summer day, these diminutive towns invite passengers to enjoy exciting shore experiences, from rollicking lumberjack shows and gold-panning demonstrations to helicopter landings on vast, white ice fields where passengers can try their hand at mushing (dog sledding), Alaska’s official sport. There are also opportunities to glimpse Southeast Alaska’s indigenous cultures with visits to totem pole parks and Native carving sheds.

Extremely popular with mature travellers, standard Inside Passage cruises are quite affordable and present unforgettable experiences with a minimum of fuss. The largest ships can carry more than 2000 passengers in a variety of accommodation, from dark cabins deep in the hull to posh upper deck staterooms with portholes that usher in the lingering daylight of the northern summer. Whatever deck they occupy, all passengers on the larger ships can enjoy such on-board amenities as lavish 24-hour buffets, health spas, music revues, cinemas, and casinos.

Alternatively, smaller and generally more expensive ‘expedition ships’ provide fewer distractions from the scenery but offer a more intimate experience than the larger ships. Accommodating only a few dozen passengers, they typically feature on-board naturalist lectures, close-up wildlife viewing, and even short kayaking trips or hikes from remote anchorages.

Inside Passage cruises are typically one-way, northbound or southbound, between Vancouver and Juneau, though some begin or end in Seattle or San Francisco. For those craving more of Alaska, major operators run popular extension packages which include a cruise between Southeast Alaska and the picturesque ports of Whittier or Seward, in South Central Alaska, to tie in with rail connections to or from Alaska’s largest city, Anchorage, and beyond. Popular possibilities include Denali National Park, with North America’s highest peak, 6195-metre Mt McKinley, the ‘frontier city’ of Fairbanks, and a variety of wilderness destinations throughout Alaska and Canada’s neighbouring Yukon Territory.

Weather: During the cruising season between May and September, Southeast Alaska’s Inside Passage experiences mostly cool, rainy weather interspersed with warmer, sunny periods with temperatures as high as around 23*C. For shore excursions or lounging on deck, cruise passengers should bring a warm jumper, a medium weight jacket and waterproofs, as well as lighter clothing for those warm, welcome sunny days.