|
|
Norway's fjords
As late September ambled into the regions of Norway, many of the tourist attractions, ferries, and activities were about to grind to a stop after the summer season. I arrived during the wind-up, before the cold and dark began to cover Norway – but was lucky enough to enjoy warmish days and just a little soft rain during the evening. Perfect for exploring the sombre side of this Scandinavian nature haven. Sombre spreads to the Norwegians too – it’s hard to get a local to crack a smile. Maybe it’s the climate but as polite and helpful as everyone is on my travels, they appear to be a serious lot. Before the lights went out I set off to reach Alesund on the west coast to travel the Golden Route and sail on the Geiranger Fjord. Any superlatives, cliches or outlandish claims as to the staggeringly beautiful sights of Norway are to be taken seriously. They are more than true; the beauty and power of the countryside and ancient waterways of Norway are a knockout! I caught the train from Oslo to Dombas, where I had to change trains to chug-chug that little bit further. From Dombas, the train rose and fell in and around rural villages clinging to sweeping countryside. I was travelling along the Dovre railway, built in stages over almost 70 years, passing along the historic route between eastern and central Norway which pilgrims followed in the Middle Ages. Early in the day the mist was breaking up into wispy bits of cloud; trees were changing shade and the red and gold of autumn was making its presence felt. Sheep stood with their faces to the sun, storing the warmth for the months ahead. The train stopped briefly at Lillehammer, the site of the 1994 Winter Olympic Games and as we choofed off I had my first glimpse of a house with an unmown lawn on the roof. These grass-roofed chalets are the funniest looking abodes – like a hut wearing a hairy hat. Like any good beanie, they keep the house warm. Changing trains at Dombas, the trip took on a high altitude spectacle; valleys with miniature towns below. The train pushed through tunnels that turned at 180 degrees then out, and over imposing bridges. As the train began a gentle descent the mountains became wider and higher, with waterfalls of glacial water gushing in torrents down the mountainsides. The train passes the tallest rock face in Europe, the trollveggen (troll wall), towering 1000m above the track. We arrive in the alpine town of Andalsnes and change to a bus to take us to Alesund by the sea. Norway still seems in denial that autumn is here – the sun is shining. Alesund is a confection of pastel coloured Art Nouveau facades, pristine cobblestone streets and other-worldliness. The original town burnt to the ground in 1904 and the rebuilding resulted in the capricious downtown centre. I visited the brilliant Art Nouveau Centre, checked out the shops and had a leisurely stroll along the waterfront. At 6pm the town was deserted. There weren’t many restaurants open but I did find an eatery that had traditional fare on offer. A large dumpling, a few potatoes, a slice of hot dog sausage and a boiled lamb chop was probably a good meal for a Viking returning from a raid but, for me, like much of the Norwegian cuisine, I found the meal wanting. Alesund is the beginning of the Golden Route, a famous attraction of a series of spectacular sights including the Trolls Path, fjords and Otta mountain pass. I travelled by bus through the mountainside, chocolate-boxy villages, farms from the pages of the Heidi books (okay, so it wasn’t Switzerland but it was a perfect match). It was strange, I saw goats and cows, but not a chook in sight at any of the farms! We plunged into darkness as we sped through endless tunnels cut through mighty mountains by large elves, emerging to spy magnificent, shimmering lakes far, far below. Incandescent mosses clung damply to the roadside rocks and the last of the tiny alpine flowers nodded in the breeze. We reached Hellesyit, a pretty, miniature village on the edge of the World Heritage-listed Geirangerfjorden, which is the departure point for the fjord ferry. Sailing on the public ferry through the fjord to Geiranger took less than 90 minutes but the impact of the surrounds sent me into another dimension and I felt as though the ferry trip would never end – I hoped it wouldn’t. It’s an exalted natural region that is emotionally draining. Towering, twisting walls that knife into the calm, cold waters of the fjord curve along the inlet. Look up and motes in the light become specks on the side of the cliffs, that turn into abandoned farms, precarious at the edge of that world. Families thrived in these weird locations, with their little homes holding on tight for survival. Children raised there had to be tethered by ropes so they didn’t fall over the cliff into the water. And when the tax man came a-callin’, the rope ladder that dropped to the water was mysteriously missing! The ferry cruises past waterfalls; the Seven Sisters, the Suitor and the Bridal Veil – waterfalls so high that I could barely see the beginning of the fall. The boat calmly heads towards the town of Geiranger at the head of the crooked fjord as it does every day, being the modest purveyor of an exalted journey. Gerainger is a charming village that is one of the country’s most visited spots, but it was in an end-of-season mood, quiet and reflective. Much like I was to be for the next couple of days after experiencing the magic of the resplendent mix of mountains and water in Norway. Being there:The writer was a guest of MyPlanet. Specialising in Scandinavian travel, MyPlanet works with specialist companies including Thon Hotels (Oslo and Andelsun). A Eurail Scandinavia Pass was just the ticket for train travel throughout Norway. Be guided by Lonely Planet’s Scandinavian Europe. Visit: www.myplanetaustralia.com.au |
|
|
|
Copyright © 2008 Mahlab Media. Anti-Spam Copyright Disclaimer Email Policy Privacy Policy |
Pristine, picture-postcard Norway with its staggeringly beautiful scenery is one of the great destinations on the globe. Bev Malzard is wild about Norge nature.