Winter in Rome

Susan Hall finds that winter in the Eternal City has its attractions. It is not as crowded or as busy as other seasons and the sun still shines on outdoor cafes in beautiful piazzas.

It’s a crisp clear winter morning in Rome, and as I step out from the cosy warmth of my hotel I put on my scarf and gloves. The nearest Metro stop is only a few hundred metres away, but before I set off on the day’s planned sightseeing itinerary, I brave the cold a bit longer and walk further along the street in search of a bar.

One of the secrets of enjoyable travel is to do what the locals do. Standing up at a bar to have a cappuccino and cornetto is the way most Romans start the day. Cornetti are the Italian version of croissants and come plain or filled with custard, jam or chocolate. Even though it will probably be the best breakfast pastry you have ever eaten, again do as the Romans do and quickly down your coffee and be on your way. The time for lingering over a drink is later on in the day.

Winter mornings in Rome can be chilly so an indoor activity is a good choice. If it’s your first visit to Rome you will probably want to join one of the long queues waiting to go into St Peter’s or the Vatican Museums. Yes, Rome is definitely less crowded at this season but that doesn’t seem to reduce the number of people wanting to visit these two wonderful attractions.

The square in front of St Peter’s is certainly the focal point of Rome and worth coming back to at the end of the day, as the basilica is floodlit in the evening. Several hop on and off tourist double-decker bus services operate from in front of St Peter’s Square. These provide a good way to get around the city, as they travel on routes that take in all the major sites. You can purchase 24-or 48-hour tickets from your hotel front desk or on the bus.

The top deck of the buses is open to the sky, so as the day becomes warmer you can sit upstairs and enjoy the view. Plan to be near the Trevi Fountain or the Pantheon at lunchtime. Here you will find lots of narrow streets and piazzas that catch the warmth of the winter sun and a huge choice of restaurants, many with outdoor tables. Wood-fired pizza in the crispy thin Roman-style washed down with the local white wine from Frascati makes for an unforgettable meal.

Exploring the Roman Forum is a wonderful occupation for a sunny winter afternoon when the temperature has risen and you no longer need the scarf and gloves. Or visit Ostia Antica which was the port for Ancient Rome and is now a huge area of excavated Roman city. To get to Ostia Antica take the Metro Line B to Piramide, and using the same ticket, change to the suburban train line for a 30-minute journey.

Spend a few hours taking a relaxing stroll through Ostia Antica’s dense maze of streets and be surprised at how much of this ancient world has survived. Temples, bath houses, theatres and rows of shops are towered over by the beautiful Roman pine trees.

The winter months in Rome bring other unique attractions. From mid-December many churches feature a beautiful nativity display which is called a presepio. A tradition which began in Naples in the 17th century, presepe now come in a variety of styles, including an outdoor nativity scene on the Spanish Steps.

The church of Saints Cosmas and Damian near the Forum displays a very ornate presepio year round. This large nativity scene depicts the whole gamut of life in a small Italian town with hundreds of figures and buildings.

Epiphany on 6 January is traditionally the day for gift giving in Italy, so the Christmas Market in the Piazza Navona remains in full swing until that day and is a good place to shop for your own nativity scene.

Hotel room rates are at their lowest in February and bargain hunters will want to catch the winter sales. Look for signs in shop windows saying saldi (sale) and sconto (discount).

By the last week in February, the sales are over and new spring fashions make their appearance. Join the locals for the passeggiata or early evening stroll along the Via del Corso and the streets around the Spanish Steps and check out what’s new at Gucci, Prada and Versace. There is a golden glow pervading everything as the lights come on at dusk. For a break from the window shopping enjoy an aperitivo at one of the trendy bars in this neighbourhood. Many offer a mini buffet of small snacks to enjoy with your drink.

As the winter sun sets, climb the Spanish Steps and turn towards the Pincio Gardens for a great view over the city. Even in winter, in the Eternal City it is always la dolce vita.