Cruising the historic Murray River

River cruising has never been more popular or more affordable. Don’t miss one of the great river journeys of the world – in our own backyard. Bev Malzard reports

Ah, there’s no water in the Murray. How many times had I heard this said over the past couple of years? Well, let me tell you, straight from the horse’s mouth – there is water in the Murray. All over Australia, areas are drying up and suffering by way of this damn drought that seems to go on and on but, although the Murray River is suffering, a paddle wheeler can still glide along her surface and bring a great deal of joy to visitors of the river in South Australia. And I was recently a lucky visitor.

What a lovely way to start a trip on the Murray River in South Australia. Instead of a rush from state to state, I flew to Adelaide, had a leisurely day catching up on what’s happening in this elegant city, tried a new restaurant, and slept well in a hotel to be refreshed for the next day’s adventure.

Early in the morning I was picked up by coach and driven to Mannum, a charming little town on the Murray that was the birthplace of riverboat trade and communication.

My fellow travellers and I were efficiently whisked onboard the P.S. Murray Princess, one of the proud vessels of the Captain Cook Cruises fleet. After the boarding formalities I headed to my cabin, a spacious affair opening onto the outside deck. Unpacked and ready to move on, I went to the lounge at the stern where ‘the big wheel keeps on turning’. The graceful stern paddle wheel is the outstanding feature of this purpose-built vessel. The Murray Princess promises and delivers an indulgent Outback river experience.

All passengers met for a welcome drink and we sat down for dinner; the standard set by the first meal was impressive. The meals are large, varied and very tasty indeed. In the dining room I met the staff and saw how well they interacted with the passengers. They are fantastic and a wonderful asset to the outfit. Most of the staff members are a lot younger than the majority of passengers but they have a genuine interest in all of us and a natural and sincere way of communicating. There’s no patronising of the older people on board.

In the evening we glide close by floodlit banks, showing us the eerie and fanciful shapes of the trees and bushes along the edge of the river.

After a restful, almost unconscious sleep on the river, in the quiet of the countryside I began the day by admiring an ethereal sunrise that crept over the horizon and cut through a soft pink dawn. Then, a quick breakfast so I can go ashore to take a guided walk with the captain and first mate. Both are knowledgeable and are close to a double act as they are not only informative but funny and irreverent.

There’s another stop later and we head ashore for a guided tour through Burk Salter’s vineyard where the group enjoys wine tastings and stories about the region from the vintners.

We have another morning onshore to take a trip into the ancient past, guided by the Ngarrindjeri people, the Indigenous people of the Lower Murray and the Coorong (and the largest Aboriginal community). We learn to read signs and markings left on the overhang of the cliffs and recognise where fires were lit centuries ago to warm the tribe and cook their food. We see a midden still in evidence from long, long ago and get a few tips on the food resources of the region, even down to the type of fish caught.

Onboard, the call to lunch is met with a mini stampede. Music quizzes and trivia keep the competitors fired up while I find a comfy chair to curl up in and read a book – by the window of course to keep an eye on what is happening on the banks of the river.

Onshore again, we all pile into the back of an old truck that’s been fitted out for quite a few passengers and chug off to Sunnydale for a visit to the Native Wildlife Shelter, where some of South Australia’s most interesting animals are cared for. The Japanese and American passengers were oohing and aahing, in fact their sounds matched the Australians. No matter what age you are or where you’re from, those furry creatures will steal your heart.

The Great Aussie Barbecue followed. Staff dressed for the part, served an excellent meal in the bush setting with great aplomb. With more guts than glory, they sang their hearts out and played some very suss bush instruments. This was a wonderful, light-hearted evening – and the captain joined the crew to entertain us as well.

A leisurely cruise along the Murray River on a paddle wheeler such as the Murray Princess proved to me to be one of the great Australian trips. And, my personal highlight, aside from the charming company and hospitality of the crew was the unforgettable sight of the cliffs – beautiful, craggy, golden slices of geology marked by flood, drought, time and tide; millions of years are on show here, and there is water in the Murray River and it’ll still be slowly shaping the cliffs for thousands of years into the future. And I’m sure whatever form of life exists then, it will be as overwhelmed by the beauty of the region as I was.

The writer was a guest of Captain Cook Cruises.
Visit: www.captaincook.com.au