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Cruising in Croatia

Travelling by galleon is an adventurous way to discover Europe’s hottest ticket today ­– Croatia. Lyn LeProvost island-hopped through the region’s history.

Hvar Harbour.
Hvar Harbour

Moulded into a deckchair on the stern of the luxury galleon Eos is a perfect way to view the long string of ‘pearls’ that form Croatia’s archipelago of islands. This replica historic trading vessel provides comfortable accommodation for up to 50 people and allows for plenty of swimming stops along the way.

Imagine this fusion – the wildness of Sydney’s Hawkesbury River, the climate of Queensland’s Whitsundays and the clear waters of Western Australia’s Rottnest Island ­– get the picture? A small-boat cruise provides for a full appreciation of this imposing area with its deep channels and narrow passageways between limestone coastal hills and mountains.

The comfort of the deckchair is the perfect place to read up on the turbulent history of the area. Croatia has endured 1000 years of differing cultures. Cruising down the Adriatic coast, it’s easy to see why the Romans, Greeks, Venetians, Hungarians, Russians and French would want to conquer this captivating country. The coastal regions, and pearl islands of the Southern Adriatic have provided settlement and remuneration for conquerors who, in turn, have left their impression on these regions’ especially the Romans on Mljet, the Mediterranean nations on Korcula and the Venetians on Hvar.

The island of Mljet covers an area of 98sq.km and was originally a holiday resort for wealthy Romans. A large, fortified Roman summer-house from the fifth century has been preserved near the town of Polace; Romanesque architecture can also be viewed at the 12th century Benedictine monastery on the western side of the small island of St Mary. This area is peaceful and quiet with most of the land designated as national park. Within this park are two lakes called the ‘small lake’ and ‘big lake’. These salt lakes offer water a few degrees warmer than the Adriatic.

Whilst Mljet feels quietly reflective, the island of Korcula is one of the more populated islands in southern Croatia. Its old town, also called Korcula, is one of the best-preserved towns from the Middle Ages, boasting original fortresses, palaces, town hall and church buildings.

Town planners and architects will appreciate the herringbone structure of the old city; it rises gently from sea level with the main street stretching from south to north down the centre of the town. Roads leading west are straight, those leading east are curved in order that the city would be aired and opened to the summer maestral winds whilst protected from the winter bura gales. Korcula is said to be the birthplace of that great tourist and travel writer Marco Polo, and his house and tower can be viewed during a visit here. The town is enchanting and galleries here house many valuable works of art including some by Titian and Leonardo de Vinci.

Cruise on to the seductive island of Hvar which was influenced by the Venetians to become a centre for culture, art and education during the 16th century. From the moment you enter the harbour, dominated by the striking Venetian gothic mullioned windows of the Hektorovic Palace, you know this island is something special.

One of the first theatres ever built in Europe is here and still in use today. This theatre is on the first floor of the ‘Arsenal’, which had storage on the ground floor for repairing the vast war fleet’s vessels of the 18th century. Walk the streets of Hvar and take in the atmosphere of the ‘Monte Carlo’ of Croatia – here are some of the most expensive hotels in the country. Models, film stars and wannabes parade along the quayside while super yachts dominate the small harbour area.

The history, culture and art heritage of the islands can become overwhelming and you will need to take comfort in the local foods. The Dalmatian ham and cheeses, grilled vegetables, sardines, other seafood and local wines are worth tucking into. And afterwards you can return to the deckchair and consider some further research – even though your book covers your eyes and nose and the sound of gentle purring can be barely detected.

Visit: www.creativeholidays.com.au

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