Goals to Newcastle

Newcastle Upon Tyne, once a thriving industrial port that had all its eggs in the coal basket, slipped off the tourism radar for a few decades. But now it’s back and alive with promise. The city and the region is a shining example of reinvigoration and the Geordies’ indefatigable enthusiasm. Bev Malzard reports.

Tyne Bridge.

England’s industrial cities were laid waste when industry declined last century and when the Empire could no longer strike back. Mines shut down, work was scarce and there was barely a nod to culture. But change came quickly this millennium.

Newcastle has pulled itself up by its boot straps and today lives up to the promotional slogans ‘Passionate Places’ and ‘Passionate People’. These both may seem a bit OTT, but once you have visited Newcastle, neighbouring Gateshead, Tynemouth, Durham, the Tees Valley and the attractions of the North Pennines, and enjoyed the natural beauty of North East England, you might want to add a few more superlatives.

Seven bridges cross the river

Look east, down the Tyne River and view the elegant sight of the seven bridges jostling for attention.

All views of the Newcastle riverside and brilliant Quayside are dominated by the seven bridges that link the city to Gateshead on the south side.

From west to east the bridges are: the Redheugh; King Edward VII; Queen Elizabeth II; The High Level; the Swing; George V and the Gateshead Millennium Bridge. (George V Bridge is more familiarly known as the Tyne Bridge.)

If you are familiar with the Sydney Rocks area and the Sydney Harbour Bridge, you may be startled to see a row of classic buildings being overshadowed by a bridge that’s curiously similar to Sydney’s ‘coathanger’. The Tyne Bridge is the river’s most famous feature. It was opened in 1929 and served as a model for the much larger Sydney Harbour Bridge.

The most recent addition is the beautiful, ‘blinking’ Gateshead Millennium Bridge for pedestrians
and cyclists only. It is a wonderful, sweeping arc that crosses the river and can be tilted (blinked) by 40deg. to allow ships to pass underneath.

The city streets

Most of the bridges take you high over the old Quayside and into the modern heart of the city. Here, find the Eldon Square shopping complex, bustling Northumberland Street, Civic Centre, the University, banks, museums, libraries, markets, nightclubs and theatres contributing to the region’s vibrancy. Urban life is focused on its gracious city centre streets, which in some ways set it apart from other northern cities that grew rapidly during the industrial revolution. The classical lines of Grainger and Clayton Streets are to be noted but the most impressive is Grey Street. Sir John Betjeman said: ‘As for the curve of Grey Street, I shall never forget seeing it to perfection, traffic-less on a misty Sunday morning. Not even Regent Street [in London] can compare with that descending, subtle curve.’ Named after the British Prime Minister Earl Grey (1830-34), his monument stands at the head of the street.

Shopping around town

Don’t miss Marks and Spencer’s Original Penny Bazaar in Newcastle’s Grainger Market. And for ‘big’ shopping visit the Metrocentre at Gateshead, the largest shopping and leisure centre in Europe and voted No. 1 shopping centre in the UK.

Aside from the Grainger Market, there’s the Newcastle Quayside Market, Jesmond Dene Market, South Shields Market and one to make an effort for – the Tynemouth Markets. Slip away to the coast by train (Metro) and at the restored Victorian station under the glass and wrought iron canopies discover plenty of stalls weighed down with bric-a-brac, books and all sorts of collectibles. After browsing the markets wander down to the land’s edge and tour sturdy ruins of Tynemouth Priory and Castle. The holiday demeanour here offers dramatic cliffs, rows of Victorian holiday homes and pleasant cafes.

State of the art

A cultural revolution has swept North East England which is evident in the splendid galleries, art shows and events, museum exhibitions and public art. Iconic works such as the monolithic Angel of the North and the undulating Sage Gateshead have been important in changing the perception of Newcastle’s culture.

The Sage Gateshead is an enormous music venue and reflects the curves of the Tyne bridge and the sublime Gateshead Millennium Bridge. The bridge leads to the spectacular Baltic Centre for contemporary art. The Baltic has no permanent collection, presenting a dynamic and ambitious program of exhibitions and events.

The Angel of the North stands with its arms open wide to welcome visitors to the North East. This extraordinary sculpture by Antony Gormely is the world’s most frequently viewed work of art. The human frame has wings towering over the A1 motorway just south of Newcastle. (The local nickname is the Gateshead Flasher.)

Britain’s best buildings

Explore the history of this part of Britain by ticking off the variety of architecture – from ancient to modern – in and around the city. Benwell, in the western suburbs of Newcastle, is home to the site of a fort on Hadrian’s Wall. There’s a defensive ditch that can be seen even though much of the ancient fort, called the Condercum, is underneath a housing estate.

There are still portions of the town’s mediaeval wall that protected the city from the raids of invading Scots and was known throughout Europe as one of the strongest and most magnificent walls of all the cities in Europe.

Anglo Saxon times saw the ‘New Castle’ being built over the ruins of the Roman fort of Pons Aelius. The castle was originally built in timber and earth and after a robust history reflecting every turmoil in Northumberland’s history, it was rebuilt in stone in 1172.

Another historic precinct is Quayside – stroll the length and take in the layers of architecture that have survived and take time out at one of the many cafes and bars that have sprung up here.

North East England offers visitors sophisticated city experiences, a wealth of cultural activities, great food and a holiday that you won’t forget in a hurry. And what you can expect first off is a warm Geordie welcome – no nonsense, no drama and no way you won’t fall in love with Newcastle Upon Tyne.

Getting there: Emirates Airlines flies from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane or Perth via Dubai to Newcastle Visit: www.visitbritain.com.au and www.NewcastleGateshead.com.

Getting there: Hotel du Vin, a funky hotel with great views of the river and a brilliant restaurant serving local specialties with regional produce.

For a special meal head for Blackfriars restaurant. Dating back to 1239 this restaurant originally housed the refectory for Newcastle’s Dominican Friars. Visit: www.blackfriarsrestaurant.co.uk
Take a tour with a Blue Badge Tour Guide. This service is peculiar to Britain and the guides are local experts.