Everyone on safari knows the first rule is to never get out of the vehicle. So what did Tricia Welsh think she was doing, walking through the undergrowth like a combat soldier – behind an armed tracker and specialist ranger?

Cat power.

We’re stalking buffalo on foot and can see about 30 of them lying down in long grass some way in the distance, near a dazzle of about 10 zebras. “Two of the most vigilant animals in the world,” insists ranger Mike Karantonis, who is leading us on a four-day ‘bush skills’ adventure in KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa.

We speak in sign language and slither on dry grass to keep out of sight. We are upwind of the animals and they show no indication that they’ve seen us. We get to within about 80 metres, have a good look and retreat as quietly as we came.

Mike is thrilled with our new-found animal tracking skills and congratulates us over a welcome cup of tea back at the troop carrier.

With such ‘hands-on’ experiences as this, plus rifle skills training, rhino-darting and sleeping out in the wild, this innovative adventure safari can rather spoil you for regular African safaris.

Run by the privately owned &Beyond (the former CC Africa), Phinda Private Game Reserve is a prime example of sound nature conservation. The 22,000 hectare reserve boasts more than 10,000 animals, many of them re-introduced. It is on Maputuland, a south-eastern coastal region that boasts nine different ecosystems and a diversity of wildlife unrivalled anywhere in Africa.

Protecting the white rhinos

Our days start early with dawn game drives and little downtime until refreshing sundowners at dusk and hearty dinners either back at Mountain Lodge, which is home during our stay, or around lantern-lit campfires at night accompanied by chilled South African wines.

One day we go rhino-darting with resident vet Dave Cooper, as part of a program to protect the 102 known white rhinoceros at Phinda from would-be poachers. And we are excited to sleep out under the stars one night – well, under mosquito nets on comfy camp beds with duvets and hot-water bottles and an armed guard to protect us from the wildlife we hear in the night!

But nothing can top our final day as we set off after our sleep-out to look for Nyoka, a 10-year-old female leopard – one of 64 at Phinda that are now collared. Using a telemetry aerial, Mike ascertains her whereabouts and we hone in to about 40 metres of her location – and wait. We give up and start to drive off when I spy a pair of ears behind long grass. She growls softly and watches our every movement. We are motionless but, since I am in the back seat, have a clear view of her beautiful face. I can’t contain my joy for having never seen a leopard in the wild before, I’m finally gazing at the most elusive and exquisitely camouflaged animal in the world.

Soon she’s on the move again, this time emerging from the undergrowth and casually sauntering across the road just metres behind us. What a rare and privileged sighting.

Off again, we meet some buffalo just strolling along the road. We seem to find animals as if to order. Anyone for elephants?

We head for the wide open plains of the bushveld and a watering hole frequented by elephants at dusk. We miss them drinking but catch them in an unbelievable moment scurrying across the plains.

With much trumpeting of encouragement and ‘hurry up’ calls from other elephants that have already crossed the open grasslands and are now in the safety of nearby trees, a second contingent of pachyderms speeds up to almost a canter leaving a cloud of red dust in its wake.

We give them space but position ourselves to witness the full spectacle. In one long line, 17 elephants including six babies seem to hold trunk to tail like an elephant express, moving across the veld with such urgency and purpose you’d think their life depended on it – and of course it does. All animals are prey on the open plains.

Making our way back in the twilight, we spy a solitary large animal at the waterhole. It’s a rare black rhino – one of a now healthy growing population on Phinda, with only 3000 left on the planet. We soon realise that this is four of the famed Big Five in one day: leopard, buffalo, elephant, and rhino – only lion to go.

Without a word, Mike detours to where a diffused red spotlight from another safari vehicle is gently focusing on a pride of six lions. “Four females and two males,” whispers Mike.

While most people go on safaris to view the amazing wildlife, it is having hands-on experiences in the wild, hearing real-life animal stories, learning about their habitats, discovering beautiful flora and abundant birdlife that make our adventure so special.

Tricia Welsh was a guest of South African Airways and &Beyond.

Getting there: Phinda Private Game Reserve is about 600km or six hours by car south east of Johannesburg and 330km or three hours by car north of Durban, and 1.5 hours from Richards Bay.

South African Airways flies direct from Sydney to Johannesburg six times a week and daily from Perth. Visit: www.flysaa.com

Federal Air Shuttle operates flights to and from Phinda from Johannesburg International on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Visit: www.federalair.com Alternatively, daily flights from JHB to Richards Bay.

Visit: Bush Skills at Phinda Adventure offered by the private game reserve which is owned and operated by & Beyond, visit www.andbeyond.com  and www.southafrica.net