Luxury Brunei

Nurture wins over nature after we’ve seen Brunei’s natural attributes. Sarah Jane Evans gives us the lowdown on the country’s luxury indulgences.

Brunei's spicy fare.

Though it cannot lay claim to a thriving nightlife, Brunei offers opportunities for sensory indulgence – from day spas and restaurants to golf courses. Add this to the lack of hawkers clamouring at visitors as well as cultural sights, beaches and jungle walks, and this tiny sultanate is a good option for a relaxing break.

For those seeking ultimate indulgence, it can be found in The Empire Hotel and Country Club, a 5-star resort on the coast, 30 minutes from the airport. In addition to the usual run of facilities, The Empire offers a bowling alley, cinema, eight swimming pools, a private beach, shops and the Nicklaus Golf Course (where hotel visitors can take private lessons).

For serious golfers there are also other courses in the capital, including the exclusive Royal Brunei Golf and Country Club, near The Empire Hotel created for the Sultan but open to experienced visiting golfers (advanced bookings required). Designed by Ronald Fream, this 18-hole course is set in rainforest.

Day spas are increasingly popping up in the sultanate, particularly around the capital Bandar Seri Begawan and, outside the main hotels the prices are relatively inexpensive. Therapists hail from Thailand, the Philippines and Indonesia and the standard is generally high.

The capital’s suburbs of Kuilap and Gadong have the highest concentration of spas. In Kuilap there is a branch of Thann Sanctuary Spa, the international group that has won accolades in Condé Nast Traveler magazine and a few blocks away in the same suburb is a branch of the upmarket Zen Spa.

For those who want to combine shopping with a spa treatment, the shopping complex ‘The Mall’ in Gadong, houses The Spazone and a little further away in the same suburb is a branch of the Indonesian chain Dewi Sri Spa which features antiques and recycled timber.

If you prefer not to venture out of your hotel, the Spa at The Empire Hotel is hard to beat and the Cantik Spa at the Sheraton Utama Hotel, in the inner city, also offers a range of therapies.

Local restaurants in Brunei serve a blend of Indian, Chinese and South-East Asian dishes, though many other styles are on offer including Middle Eastern, Thai, Italian and Western. Eating out in Brunei is generally good value − especially if you head to the less extravagant looking affairs where you can have a plate of roti, or noodles or a bowl of tom yum for just a few dollars. Don’t make the mistake of judging the food by the appearance of the restaurants − some of the best offerings come from humble roadside cafes.

The majority of eating options are concentrated in the suburbs of Kuilap and Gadong, with less on offer in the centre of town. For those who like to sample the cuisine of their host country, ambuyat − a gluey sago dish served with condiments − is one of Brunei’s national dishes.

Given that Chinese make up around 11 per cent of the population (66 per cent are Malay, 3.5 per cent are indigenous tribal and 19 per cent are other), it is not surprising there are lots of Chinese restaurants here. Popular with locals are Dynasty Restaurant in Gadong and the upstairs Phong Mun in town. For cafe lovers, De Royale Cafe has wifi and arguably the best coffee in the capital.

Visit: www.tourismbrunei.com

N.B. Alcohol cannot be purchased in the sultanate but visitors can bring in 12 cans or bottles of beer and two litres of wine or spirits per person.