Experiencing the fun of the fair in the countryside with some culture, cuisine and renowned hospitality thrown in, Amy Holgate went mad for Mudgee.

Mudgee, NSW (in the language of the Wiradjuri people – 'Moothi' – nest in the hills).

In the language of the Wiradjuri people, Mudgee (‘Moothi’) means ‘nest in the hills’. And here in the Cudgegong Valley in mid-west NSW, away from the mad clamour of the city, the landscape is serene. Enormous skies and rolling pastures give you the feeling that you have all the time in the world to enjoy your visit.

If you can shake yourself out of your reveries though, there is much to do in Mudgee at any time of the year – whether it’s enjoying the landscape, the sumptuous food and drink, the history, art, culture, or the many fairs and markets all through the year.

Mudfest

This annual short film festival in the grounds of Elliot Rocke winery is rather more civilised than it sounds. Spread your blanket out under the stars, unpack the picnic, and watch the very best in independent filmmaking on the big screen.

The films are 15 minutes long and range from animation and comedy to noir, mystery and downright surreal. Make sure you are in good voice, too – you’ll need to make yourself heard when the voting for the ‘people’s choice’ prize comes up!

With the earthy scent of dusk rising up through the air, it’s a beautiful place to watch filmmakers weave their magic.

When: 20 March 2010

Where: Elliot Rocke winery

Price: $25

Visit: www.mudfest.com.au

Farmers markets

Local stallholders proudly display their wares at these lively farmers markets in St Mary’s church grounds at the centre of town. Musical youngsters perform with the local band, and stalls are packed with colourful fruit, veggies, plants, oils, lotions and potions.

A stand-out is Angela’s Edibles, a collection of sublime marmalades and jams – ‘the flavours of Mudgee in a jar’, Angela says. If her sunshine-sweet apricot jam is anything to go by, she’s not far off.

When: Third Saturday of the month

Where: St Mary’s Catholic Church (corner of Church and Market Streets)

Visit: www.mudgeefinefoods.com.au

Farm walks

New monthly farm walks are on the third Sunday of the month (you’ll need to buy tickets from the tourist office first), so if you’re keen to get back to your grassroots and get a taste of a working farm pick up a tour. You’ll learn about production, seasonality, taste some of the produce and really get your hands dirty.

When: Third Sunday of the month

Where: A chosen farm as per the tour timetable

Price: $5 per person or $10 per family

Visit: www.mudgeefinefoods.com.au

Cycling tour

The flat terrain of Mudgee’s wineries makes them perfect for touring on two wheels. They’re all fairly close together, too, and you’ll get to see the vines up close as you whiz by with the wind in your hair.

Green Pedal Tours offers a range of different tours around the area. The ‘Wine Lovers’ tour is graded ‘easy to moderate’ (good for me!) and includes helmets, detailed maps, coffee and cake. Best of all, they’ll organise for any chosen purchases of wine to be collected for you afterwards so you don’t need to lug bottles around on your bike – genius! Owners Ross and Liz are friendly and reassuring, too, if it’s been about 400 years since you last hopped on a bike.

Local winemakers are justly proud of their wines and will happily give you a taste. Mudgee is the oldest winegrowing region in NSW after all, and apparently has more vines in the ground than its more famous counterpart, the Hunter Valley. Robust reds with a European influence, like Cab Sav and Shiraz, are the area’s signature wines; the most famous whites are Chardonnay and Semillon but there are many more to try, and they’re all mouthwatering to me.

Price: $65 for an adult’s half-day unguided tour – many more options available.

Visit: www.greenpedaltours.com.au

Where to stay: Ardrossan B&B

A stunning spot on the outskirts of town, Ardrossan’s ebullient owners Susan and Ed DeLong know how to host in style and take pride in pampering you. Enjoy lots of chat and wine – and a breakfast that will leave you groaning (think eggs Benedict, homemade blueberry pancakes and more).

Price: from $190 per night.

Visit: www.ardrossanmudgee.com.au

Where to eat: High Valley Wine & Cheese Co

Here you’ll find fine, unpretentious food using local ingredients, good coffee, homemade cakes and many different cheeses, ripely oozing appeal. If you are taking a cycle tour it’s a good spot to take a break, wet your whistle and watch the world go by.

Where: Mudgee is four hours’ drive from Sydney.

Visit: www.visitnsw.com and www.visitmudgeeregion.com.au