Oman's desert beauty

Heading into the ancient land of Oman, riding a camel, meeting up with Bedouins and seeking out the souks, Bobbi Mahlab discovered the historic richness of Arabia.

Desert traffic.

It’s the scent of the place that entices you to Oman: frankincense, the pungent incense that burns in orthodox churches around the world. It is the fragrant export that put this Arab nation on the map centuries ago and remains its most notable commodity.

Sitting peacefully between the United Arab Emirates in the north, Yemen in the South, Saudi Arabia to the west, and across the Gulf of Oman to Iran, Oman is a near rainless country where jagged mountains soar out of the aqua sea and sandstone forts that once pitted tribe against tribe are a part of the everyday landscape.

If you have never been to the Middle East, Oman is a sampler – a true taste of Arabia. With little money to dizzy its head, the country is like a woman with style but no money for clothes. She does well with what she has.

Under the 30-year leadership of His Majesty Sultan Quaboos bin Said, the Sultanate of Oman has embraced progress at a tempered pace – the smiles and grace of the Omanis are, in part, the products of a decent health system, quality education for boys – and for girls – and a surprisingly fine road system.

Our journey begins at 3650m at Jebel Shams in the Jabal al Akhdar mountain range. A walker’s paradise, the well-signed walking tracks skate the mountain edge with stunning views of sharp, deep chasms. A three-hour return walk takes us to Sabt Bani Khamis, an abandoned stone village perched on the edge of a cliff. It was only a few years ago that 20 families and their goats lived there. We descend to the Nizwa Valley for the weekly goat market. In the early morning heat, men and boys in caps and long white robes known as dishdashas provide a backdrop for the few standout women here wearing vibrant coloured robes and full black masks. The black masks worn by women vary by tribe. Some cover the entire face from forehead to chin, others only the eyes and nose.

The goat market is part of one of Oman’s best souks. Cardamon-sprinkled dates, glossy onions, plump garlic, limes and eggplants are piled high for the picking. Tourist shops line narrow lanes selling chunky silver jewellery, sheathed knives fit for Lawrence of Arabia and of course, frankincense.

A street away is the restored Nizwa fort. Here we discover the significance of traditional Omani doors that grace forts and houses. Carved from teak, these heavy doors – some with brass spikes to stop elephants ramming them – have become symbols of Oman.

From Nizwa we drive south to Wahiba Sands. Here, in the yellow red desert in the company of Bedouins and camels, our world turns golden.

At the desert edge we are met by Bedouin brothers who guide our four-wheel drive through massive dunes to a hut made of palm leaves. We sit on a carpeted floor as twin girls with smouldering kohl eyes serve us coffee and dates. Demure around their brothers, we saw them yank dresses over their soccer shorts as we came over the dune.

After slow, conversational moments in halting English between us and our hosts and the other German, French and Finnish guests, it becomes apparent that it is time to ride.

My camel is tied by a length of rope to a camel in front and behind; he ignores me as I heave my legs over his saddle blanket. I lean forward confidently like a jockey, the brute stands and we are off.

Four metres closer to heaven, and I am in heaven. It is sunset and we ride to the top of a dune as the sun curtseys on the other side. We get the first glimpse of our camp – a series of delicate palm huts in a curve on the sand.

I have never been much of a camper but this is lovely. Our hut has three beds, a lamp and a sand floor. Musicians arrive in the cool of the evening and the Bedouin brothers and anyone willing to lift their camel-weary limbs from embroidered cushions dance around the fire.

The port city of Muscat, the capital of Oman, is a half-day drive away. But in the desert we are centuries away.

Muscat is one hour by air from Abu Dhabi or Dubai. As a Muslim nation, Oman is a dry country. Alcohol is available in hotels and bars only. The best time to travel to Oman is mid-October to March. Other months are prohibitively hot.

Nomadic Desert Camp, Whaiba Sands, visit: www.nomadicdesertcamp.com
(The camp is the vision of Rashid Al Mugairy, the eldest of five brothers from a long line of camel traders. A charismatic man with an undeniable twinkle, Rashid employs his entire family, twins included.)

For more information email: info@tourismoman.com.au