Tasmania's wild side

Tasmania in winter is not a place for sissies. Tony Butler proved his hardiness while exploring the weather-worn northern part of the little island.

Highland House.

When my partner and I decided to spend our travel dollars in Australia and opt for a road trip in northern Tasmania in mid-July, our friends were a little perturbed. They thought us strange, going in the middle of winter. But we loaded the car with balaclavas and long johns and boarded the MV Spirit of Tasmania at Port Melbourne at 7pm.

We disembarked at Devonport next morning to an icy -2deg. My partner cranks up the heater; slips honey-toned K.D. Lang into the player and we head west towards Stanley and The Nut.

Along the way we visit the Table Cape lighthouse where the wind whistles an eerie tune across the glassy sea. The rocky outcrop at Stanley known as The Nut is a stoic buffer for the tiny hamlet against the chilly Bass Strait gales. We head straight to The Stranded Whale coffee shop where the pumpkin soup thaws us out and the coffee and scones add ballast. Fortified, we stroll down to the beachside local cemetery for a dose of history and also a peek in the window of former premier and PM Joe Lyons’ cottage before driving to our Beachside Retreat West Inlet cabin for two nights’ stay. We get a feeling of isolation, of being the first to witness the squabble of gulls or to catch sight of a quoll. At sunset small islands float like stranded boats on the orange-hued horizon. On the other side of our cabin, green fields fold towards The Nut then onto the Tasman.

Next day we drive to historic Highfield House on the headland. Originally owned by the Van Diemen’s Land Company and built by convicts in 1824, Highfield House now stands as a reminder of the white history here and the sheer determination, or perhaps folly, of settlers to recreate the dales of England on this rugged outcrop.

From Stanley we drive south to Lemonthyme Lodge (about 30 minutes’ drive from Cradle Mountain). We lose our way and are rewarded by some spectacular views from the lookout at Mt Claude. The rain tumbles through the forest of gums as we are shown to our warm log cabin.

Next morning, low clouds close in and we abandon the trip to Cradle Mountain and instead head east to Freycinet.

We spend the night in the historic town of Ross and head straight for the Ross Bridge, built by convicts in 1836 and it’s been in continuous operation ever since. Wandering around the near deserted streets we drop into the Tasmanian Wool Centre and walk across the ‘fields’ of Ross to explore a prison called the Female Factory – now an abandoned house with a few wandering sheep nibbling outside the doors. A train whistle blows in the distance but with winter’s grip on Ross we can think of nothing but slipping into our warm bed at Willowbank Cottage behind the antique shop.

Day five and we motor over to Swansea, a bustling beach town in summer but a little somnambulistic today. Fearing the creeping cold, my partner buys a pair of lairy orange slippers at Gallery One Nine which proved superfluous when we check into The Edge of the Bay resort at Freycinet – the floors are heated – what bliss! The views from our room across the bay to Freycinet Peninsula are spectacular. The resort has dinghies for fishing but we opt for sedate shell hunting on the beach at our doorstep.

Before lunch next day we walk the half hour trek to the Wineglass Bay lookout – entry via Freycinet National Park.

Crossing back to Launceston through the mountains we are luckily, miss a massive gum crashing across the road one car ahead of us. The road is cleared by resourceful locals with chainsaws – we do our feeble best to help these mountain giants.

Launceston is a treat. There are cafes, restaurants, the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery, Pennyroyal Village and Cataract Gorge Reserve and the nearby Tamar Valley with its bountiful wine and produce. After a late lunch at Stillwater River Cafe we explore the town and Tamar River.

Departing by boat in the morning, we agree that to leave by such a timeless mode of transport is apt for this island, rich in history, beauty and at times, wild weather.

Spirit of Tasmania: www.spiritoftasmania.com.au

Beachside Retreat West Inlet: www.beachsideretreat.com

Highfield House: historic-highfield.com.au

Lemonthyme Lodge: www.lemonthyme.com.au

Willowbank Cottage: (03) 6381 5219

Trellis Cafe Bar Lounge: www.trelliscafebar.com.au

Edge of the Bay resort: www.edgeofthebay.com